Prop the bike on large boxes and shim further with wood planks. This will make the bike more accessible and less susceptible to falling over. After standing the bike, disconnect the ground lead from the battery to prevent short circuits.

Undo the oil drain plug screw with a spanner and allow oil to drain out of the bike. There is not much oil in the gearbox, so a 10" pieplate should sufficiently hold the oil. Drain the oil into a cranberry juice bottle using a siphon and take it to the nearest recycling station.

Remove the split pin in the center of the hub with a small pair of pliers. Using a 22mm Socket, loosen the castellated nut. If it refuses to budge, have a friend apply the rear brake add the pipe length to your socket handle to give more leverage. The bolt should budge quickly. Collect the castellated nut and the large spacer washer

Pull the wheel away from the hub to reveal the brakes and rear axle. If the brakes are considerably worn, indicated by poor stopping or inability to lock the rear wheel, replace both shoes AFTER the repairs to the engine are completed. Wheels tend to be covered in soot from the exhaust, wipe clean with a small spray of carb cleaner.

Wrap a clean plastic bag around the brake shoes making sure the lip of the bag pushes behind the shoes and tape it with vinyl electrical tape. Since oil will spill everywhere during the disassembly, this step is very important to prevent damage to the brake shooes.

Open the juction box by removing the screw in the top of the door and disconnect all connections inside the box noting wiring configuration. Pull back the CDI rubber to remove the connections from the CDI box. Pull the frame electrical connections from the top junction box.

Disconnect the rear brake cable from the brake arm. A small socket will loosen the nut and allow the inner to slide out. Pull the inner cable and the outer cable completely clear of the engine.

You will have to remove the gear selector box. Remove the Cylinder and flywheel shroud by removing their respective screws. The Selector box cover will lift away with the flywheel shroud. Undo the small nuts on the selector box and carefully collect the hardware under the nuts.

Get a friend to shift from first gear to fourth gear. This action will lever off the gear selector box and allow you to remove it from the engine. Have the pieplate ready for more oil. You don't need to loosen the gear selector cables, in fact I don't reccomend it unless the selector box requires further inspection.

You will have to remove the carburettor and air box. There is a dissassembly guide in the carburettor rebuild section if this picture is not completely clear. Undo the arrowed screws to remove the carb box. As usual, leave the oil injector alone unless it requires attention.

Remove the clutch cable by removing the little 7mm nipple on the end of the cable. Pull the inner and outer clear of the engine.

Remove the rear shock bolt. The bolt uses two different sized wrenches as pictured. remove the fasterners and drive the bolt out with a hammer if neccessary.

Remove the 22mm nut from the main engine bolt. Get a friend to catch the engine as you drive out the bolt with a punch and hammer. Removing the spare tire will give you room to drive the bolt. Pull the engine away from the bike with the exhaust attached.

Use a large chisel between the lip of the exhaust manifold and the cylinder to lever the the exhaust away from the engine. Depending on the amount of rust on the exhaust, you may need a hammer to get enough force to lever it away.