Remove the nuts by loosening them slowly in this order. Do a quarter turn, go to the next, quarter turn, next, quarter turn, next, etc. until the nuts are removed. This will take a while, but you risk bending the aluminum head if you don't do them in small steps and in order. The same is true for tightening. Carefully collect the hardware and remove the cylinder head.

Remove the Cylinder Head; then remove the Cylinder Barrel, exposing the piston. Note imperfections on the piston. For example, the large black band directly below the piston rings suggests worn piston rings. See below for tips on repair. Prise the alloy cylinder seal off the edge of the engine case.

Place a small metal punch lengthwise through wrist pin ensuring both sides touch the edges of the case. Rotate the flywheel until it is held tight by the punch. Using a socket, remove the flywheel nut. You may need more leverage so use a pipe length on the end of a socket. It is not adviseable to use a hammer.

Remove the punch from the piston. Lightly oil the flywheel puller threads and thread the tool into the center of the flywheel. Get about 5 or 6 threads of the tool into the flywheel. Using a spanner and a socket, tighten with the socket and anchor with the spanner (pictured).

The flywheel will pull away from the crank taper revealing the stator, taper and woodruff key. These are the key timing components of the engine.

Pull the half-moon shaped woodruff key and inspect it for shearing (deep line in the metal), if there is no scoring then you may reuse it. Look for cold solder joints on the stator (disconnected or cracked solder joints) and repair them as neccessary. The picture depicts an example of a good solder joint.

Though most P-series Vespas come with timing marks cast into the engine, it is a good idea to make a thinner line with a screwdriver, so you can get it dead on. A screwdriver and a hammer tap on the edge of the stator plate and case will quickly mark and accurate stock point.

Here is the result. When realigning the stator, use this new mark as a base timing point.

Remove the arrowed screws to get behind the stator plate. These screws strip easily, so push down on the screwdriver and use the proper sized driver. If you strip a screw, a pair of Visegrips will loosen it. Always replace stripped screws.

Carefully dangle the stator from the case. NEVER ROLL THE CASE ONTO THE STATOR. There are a number of case screws to loosen (arrowed). Loosen them and store them somewhere safe. Many screws have a complimenting stud that will fall out as they are removed.

There are a number of case screws to loosen (arrowed). Loosen them and store them somewhere safe. Many screws have a complimenting stud that will fall out as they are removed. The stud and nut under the flywheel is called the long case stud. It tends to rust and seize. If yours is siezed, order a new one from a scooter shop.

With all the nuts removed you are ready to split the cases. Tap the point next to the oil plug (pictured) with a rubber mallet and a piece of wood and the cases will nudge apart. DO NOT move the kickstart lever. You should be able to simply pull away the case to reveal the gears. The picture shown depicts a metal hammer being used. After great debate, I have decided to amend this section. ***Ignore the metal hammer an use a rubber one instead. You risk damaging the cases with a metal hammer.***

A spring and the kickstart pinion will usually fall out of the case. collect them and inspect the pinion for wear. If any teeth are missing, renew the gear. The one pictured is not worn.